Idler Gear Updates - Part I

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Based on my first on set experience with the idler gear (detailed in the original post), I have made some of the listed changes, as well as one or two that weren't on my original list of things to change. This post covers changes made to the armature. A future post will cover the changes made to the rest of the unit.

As you can see in the picture above, the most notable change is the addition of a 10-32 adjustable handle. In the first version of the armature, I had used stainless steel hardware. This proved almost impossible to work with at any size above 8-32, and even that was a challenge. Because of this, I purchased the adjustable handles with ordinary steel studs. The handle was purchased with a 1-1/4" stud. This I cut down to the precise size needed, so the stud length fits the width of the block exactly. The handle has added a tremendous advantage to on set usage. It greatly speeds up the process of making adjustments to the assembly.

The arm itself has also been permanently cemented to the block. I had begun to notice a significant amount of play in the connection between the two, which was leading to some of the gear slippage I had experienced. Permanently attaching the arm to the block was the best solution. The ability to use arms of different lengths is lost, but the trade off is worth it. I settled on an arm length that has worked well for everything so far. The arm now extends 5" above the top of the block. To fasten the arm in place, I used JB Weld (KWIK). It is holding very solidly, and has eliminated much play from the system.

Building a Universal Idler Gear

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The Concept:


It's quite a shock to start using a new lens, and discover that it focuses in the direction opposite to that which you have been accustomed. When I first began pulling focus professionally, most of my work was with Nikon mount lenses. Imagine my surprise then, stepping on to a low budget RED shoot without any prep time, to discover that cine glass focuses in the opposite direction. When we wrapped for the day, I promptly went home and did some research. Turns out that the direction most Nikon mount lenses focus is the exception, not the rule. All the reflexes I had built up over many shoots destroyed by the simple change of a lens.

The ironic thing is that the Nikon focusing direction actually makes more sense. When the distance between film plane and subject narrows, the follow focus knob is turned toward the back of the camera (using the top of the knob as reference). The opposite for increasing distance between film plane and subject. With cine glass, it's the opposite. Despite the apparent strangeness of cine focusing direction, I needed to adapt. I also needed a mechanism for focusing in the apparently "correct" direction with Nikon glass.

Inspired by my own experience, as well as Ryan Walters' thread over at RedUser, I decided to set about building myself an idler gear assembly to change the focus direction of Nikon mount lenses. The basic idea is that by inserting an extra gear between the follow focus drive gear, and the gearing on a given lens, the focus direction will be reversed.

I had several parameters for this contraption. First off, it had to work with any follow focus out there. Several vendors have models that fit their own lines of follow focus units, but as I work with a variety of different gear, I needed something that would work with every follow focus I encountered.

Additional Information: As far as manufactured idler gears go, there are several options. Redrock Micro will soon be releasing an assembly that fits their excellent, affordable follow focus. Arri and Chrosziel already have units that fit several of thier respective follow focus models. I believe I've seen another (albeit, expensive) universal model lurking around somewhere, but I don't recall who makes it.

It also had to be extremely versatile, working with any lens at any height and diameter. Finally, it had to be easy to use and adjust. With these things in mind, I began the design process.

Below are some early concept drawings:


A view of the whole assembly as if from the back of the camera. Click for larger.



Block and gear assembly from top. Click for larger.

The above should give a basic idea of what I set out to achieve. the final design changed quite a bit, inspired by issues of practicality, usability, compactness, etc.

With the basics in mind, let's move on to the actual build for v1 of the contraption. As we go step by step, I'll attempt to explain some of the reasons I designed it the way I did.


The Build:

Tools:

Saw w/metal blade (Jigsaw preferred. A hacksaw can be used, but will make your life miserable)

Tape measure

Drill (drill press will make life a lot easier)

Bits (high speed steel or better)

#21

#29

3/8"

15mm (1/2" shank for smaller chucks. Available at mcmaster.com)

1/4"

Tap handle

Taps (bottoming taps preferred)

8-32

10-32

4mm .7


Pencil (or other marking device)

Allen keys (set)

Small metal file(s)

Small t-square (optional)

Center punch

Vice


Materials:

Aluminum stock (1/2" thick)

3/8" round aluminum tube

1x 8-32 Hex cap head bolt ~3/8" (I bought a 5/8" and cut it down to size)

1x 10-32 Hex cap head bolt 3/4"

4mm .7 threaded rod

4mm .7 Lock nut

2x 4mm lock washer

4mm .7 nut

.8mod/32 pitch spur gear (Same size as follow focus drive gear. I got mine from Redrock)



The idler gear assembly has three main components:

    1. Armature. Connects to the 15mm rails, and runs an arm up for attaching the rest of the assembly.

    2. Connecting Block. Connects the gear assembly to the armature.

    3. Gear Assembly. The actual idler gear and related hardware.


We'll start with the armature. Here's a diagram of what we'll be building:



Note how the design has changed since the concept drawings. The mechanism for tightening the armature base to the rails has been moved. This allows the design to be more compact, and eliminates the extra parts that would otherwise be needed to attach the armature itself to the base thereof. By moving the tightening mechanism, we can also use it to keep the arm in place.

The first step is to cut an appropriately sized piece of aluminum stock. For 15mm rails, the size is 1" x 3/4" x 1/2". I haven't yet calculated the appropriate size for 19mm rails.


Having cut the bit we'll be working with, the next step is to start drilling holes in it. Start with the hole for the rails. The 15mm hole should be drilled on the 3/4" side of the block. Spacing should be equidistant on the sides. Center of hole is .375" from each side. Eyeball the top/bottom spacing. Ideally, you'll have slightly less than .375" on the bottom. Use the center punch to mark the center of the place to be drilled. This is a large hole, so you'll want to drill pilot holes. I did a #21 and 3/8" before moving up to the 15mm.


Next, drill the 3/8" hole for the arm, as per the diagram. Drill all the way through, until you break into the side of the 15mm hole. Use a circular metal file to clean out both this hole and 15mm one. I found it helpful to do a #21 pilot hole for this one.



Drill the hole for the tightening screw. This should go all the way through the block, as per the diagram. It should be spaced half way between the top of the 15mm hole and the top of the block. Use a #21 bit for this hole. Once the hole is drilled, insert the 3/8" tube in its hole.

Note: Before inserting the tube, you should cut an appropriate length of it. I found six inches to be about right. You'll know better what length to use after actually using the finished product. I keep several lengths on hand when on set.

Also, you may have to again file out debris from the 3/8" hole, which was made during the drilling of the screw hole before the tube will fit.

Again using the #21, use the hole you just drilled as a guide to drill straight through the tube. Leave the tube in the hole, and use a 10-32 tap to cut threads all the way through the block and tube.



Now we have to make it possible to clamp our block on to the 15mm rails. As per the diagram, cut a slit perpendicular to, and through the screw hole, until it intersects with the 15mm hole. At this point, verify that you can still get your screw/bolt to thread the hole properly. It will probably be a little difficult the first time, as the screw will have to push some debris from the cut out of the way. Remove the screw, and load up a 1/4" drill bit.

While you now have a block that looks like it should tighten on the rails when the screw is tightened, you'll notice that it doesn't. The solution is to drill out the section of the screw hole marked in green below, so that the screw doesn't actually hold on anything there, thus enabling it to flex as pressure from the screw head is applied.


The 1/4" bit worked well for me here.

Having drilled this part of the hole out, insert the tube in the appropriate place, and screw in the bolt. Stick the thing on your rails, and give it a try. It should hold firmly. If all works well, use a file to soften all the sharp edges and corners. Wouldn't do to be bleeding all over an expensive lens.


The finished base without hardware.


The finished armature.

Now let's move on to the connector block. This is the bit that interfaces between the armature and the gear assembly. Here's a diagram:


Again, note how the design has changed from the concept drawing. The changes here allow for an easier build, although using a modification of the concept found in the initial drawing might lead to a slightly more rigid build, and easier access to the tightening screw; however, we would lose some flexibility in the way the block is able to be positioned.

The connecting block requires another chunk of the stock aluminum. This piece should be sized 3/4" x 11/16" x 1/2".


Once the block is cut, the first hole to be drilled is the 3/8" hole for the tube (through the 3/4" x 11/16" side). Again, a #21 pilot hole was useful. Once the 3/8" is drilled, do the hole for the tightening screw and gear attachment. Similar to the tightening hole on the armature base, this hole should go all the way through the block. Use a #29 bit for this hole. On the tightening screw end of the hole, use an 8-32 tap to cut threads just over half way down the hole. On the other end of the hole use a 4mm .7 tap to cut threads for the rest of the hole.


Cut the slit which allows tightening from the edge of the block to the 3/8" hole, again bisecting the tightening screw hole. Do exactly what you did on the armature base, and drill out the first segment of the tightening screw hole (not sure what size bit I used for this, but calipers can easily provide you with an appropriate measurement). By now, your connecting block should look like this:



Connector block without hardware.

Slide the block on to the 3/8" tube. Again, you may have to clean out the hole with a circular file. Screw in the 8-32 screw, and make sure it works. Don't forget to file down the sharp corners and edges.

Cut a length of threaded rod. The length will depend on your follow focus and lenses. I'm currently using about a 3.5 inch length, but carry several different ones on set, just in case. This piece of threaded rod will attach to the connector block, and hold the gear itself in place. I have seen one design that simply has the gear right at the top of the armature. I don't like this for several reasons. For one thing, it won't work with every follow focus out there. It will be a little more compact, but with the caveat that you'll eventually run into something it won't work with. Also, it's ultimately not as flexible as this design. The design we're building here allows far greater possibilities for interfacing between lens and follow focus.

Screw one end of the threaded rod into the metric threaded part of the hole on the connector block.


Finished connector block with hardware.

Now we're ready for the most important part, the gear itself. Put a nut on the threaded rod, followed by a lock washer. Then put the gear on. It should spin freely on the rod. I chose 4mm threaded rod for this project, because the bore of my gear is 4mm, and I didn't trust myself to drill the gear out to accomodate a larger rod size. After the gear, put on another lock washer (a regular washer will work just fine here, however). Follow it up with a lock nut on the end of the rod. It should look something like this:


Finished gear assembly.


The connector block and gear assembly should now be one part:


Connector block and gear assembly.

That's it! The idler gear is finished. At this point, you now have something that will actually allow you to reverse focus direction on your lenses.


Yes, the lens gear is attached in the wrong place.


Results:


I soon as I finished the assembly, I took it on set for a two day short film shoot. It got the job done. However, using it in a real world environment showed me some problems with the design, that I plan to address in the next version.

Rigidity: There is more flex in the system than there should be. While the assembly works fine for the most part, the threaded rod has just enough flex in it at the length I'm using so that the gear will skip if I turn the follow focus too fast, or hit the end of the focus throw with too much force. Obviously, this is not acceptable. The problem was especially pronounced when using the Zeiss Planar 85mm f/1.4 which has a fairly stiff focus throw.

To fix this, I'll be replacing the threaded rod with drill rod, which is a lot stiffer. I'll use a die to cut my own threads on it as necessary.

Ease of Adjustment: When on a tight schedule, it's a real pain (and slows down production) to have to break out the allen keys every time you need to make an adjustment to the assembly. It just takes too long, and is something of a hassle.

To fix this, the tightening screws will be replaced with adjustable handles from McMaster Carr. Ideally, I'd use something really small like what RED does. However, small adjustable handles don't seem to be available anywhere. I'll be using handles that are about 1.75" long. The smallest I can get them is 10-32, so I'll have to re-drill part of the connector block. Hopefully the hole will still be small enough that I don't have to fabricate another one.

Also under ease of adjustment, I ended up needing one adjustment that I hadn't planned for. In some cases, I found myself needing to adjust the position of the gear on its shaft (no time to swap out shafts in between lens changes). While moving the gear was no problem, I had nothing to keep it in place where it needed to be. I'm going to add another nut inbetween the lock nut and lock washer, so I'll be able to fully secure the gear should I need to move it closer to the connector block without changing shafts.

With the above modifications, I fully expect this device to become a regular part of my AC kit. I'll post updates as they are made.

Detail - Part II: Balancing the Equation

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In Part I we went over how to turn off in camera sharpening to give us more control over the sharpening process in post-production. So now we have some beautiful, unsharpened footage. But let's face it, coming straight off most cameras, especially the HVX-200, our footage is something less than sharp. On some shots it can be so soft that the image looks out of focus.

But we can't dive into sharpening right off the bat. Sharpening should be one of the last procedures in the post-production pipeline. Editing, color grading, and fx come first.

So when we're ready for sharpening, how do we go about it? We'll be taking a look at the process in Adobe After Effects (which, with a little help from the Rebel's Guide, can be turned into a powerful grading/onlining tool).

The very first thing to do in After Effects is change the project bit depth. For some reason, AE defaults to 8-bit. While this may be fine for some applications, it's not for us. We need to be working in either 16 or 32-bit. Change this by selecting the appropriate bit depth under File>Project Settings...

 

Next, import your project from Premiere, your footage, etc. Do all your color and fx work. When you're ready for the sharpening stage, select the layer(s) or nested comp that you want to sharpen, and create a new adjustment layer (Layer>New>Adjustment Layer). Add the "Unsharp Mask" effect to the adjustment layer. Tweak the settings to achieve a level of sharpness that works for you (if you're unfamiliar with unsharp mask, check out this tutorial. It's for Photoshop, but gives a great overview of how the tool works, and how to use it). If you're doing something dreamy and ethereal, you may not want to do any sharpening. On the other hand, you may want the image to jump off the screen at you. Let's take a look at some examples.

 
Click for 720p.


Before: The already soft image from the HVX was aggravated by a half second exposure, during which the camera was not completely locked down. More sharpening than normal will be necessary here. The long exposure in combination with the color grading reveals a lot of large, blocky, pattern noise in the darkest areas of the image. Care must be taken not to sharpen the noise any more than we can help.

 
Click for 720p. Amount: 89.2, Radius: 0.7, Threshold: 0.


After: A balance has been found that is pleasing to me. The image is fairly sharp, with a minimum of artifacting added. You might find different settings suit your taste better. One of the situations in which you will only want to perform minimal sharpening is the interview. The final image may not be as sharp as it could be, but the talent will thank you for making them look great when they see the final product.

 
Click for 720p.

Before: This footage was shot on a green screen. A background has quickly been keyed in to reflect a theoretical final image. The image itself doesn't look too soft. The hair, eyelashes, etc could use a bit more definition, though.


Click for 720p. Amount: 36, Radius: 1.6, Threshold: 10.


After: A good balance has been found between defining the hair, and over sharpening the facial textures.

In the end, the important thing is to do what's right for the shot. The subject matter of certain shots will demand more sharpening than others. Adjust accordingly. Also keep in mind final viewing format and size. These will all have an effect on the amount and type of sharpening applied. Finally, make it look good. Whether it's a ton of sharpening, or none at all, do what looks best to you.

Detail - Part I: Less is More

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Take a look at this frame:

Click for 720p version.

Now compare it to this version:

Click for 720p version.

The top image is soft, and the second one is so sharp it almost seems dirty. Something isn't right here. Recently I've been noticing the extreme degree to which most video content has been over-sharpened. I had posted some frame grabs from a recent project on a message board. One of the comments I got was that the grabs had way too much sharpening applied. The ironic thing was, I hadn't sharpened the images at all. I took another look at the images, and sure enough. There were sharpening artifacts and ringing all over the place:


Click for larger. Over-sharpening is most evident in the texture on the cheeks, the left eye, and ringing around the right side of the face and shoulder. Note: if you can't initially see the artifacting, A/B it with a copy that has a .5 pixel Gaussian blur applied.

It was the result of in-camera detail settings. The more I looked at it, the more obvious it became, and I wondered how I hadn't seen this before. Then I started closely examining the video content I was consuming. What do you know... almost all of it exhibited the same problems. I was so used to seeing these problems on commercial content, that my eyes had gotten used to it.

Check it out:

The Hire - Hostage. Notice the ringing under the chin. Click for larger size.


The Hire - Hostage. Contrast enhanced edges. Click for larger.


24 Season 1. Ringing in high contrast areas. Click for larger.


The Italian Job. Ringing everywhere. Click for larger.

Why are these artifacts undesirable? They trick the eye in to believing that the picture is sharper than it actually is. Isn't this a good thing? Perhaps for distribution. For some, the examples from commercial content posted above may have an acceptable amount of sharpening. However, there are a number of reasons why this extreme degree of sharpening should be avoided, especially in camera.

  1. Maintain maximum image flexibility for post - Sharpening should be done as one of the final steps in the post production process. Sure you can sharpen your image in camera, but once it's sharpened, you're stuck with any added artifacts. Say for example you're onlining your latest project, and realize that a shot is slightly out of focus. This can be fixed to a certain degree with sharpening. However, if you had detail levels turned up in camera, you end up sharpening existing sharpening artifacts, making them stand out even further. Better to do all sharpening post where you have more control, and can "undo" your sharpening by simply turning off an adjustment layer (or similar, depending on the onlining application of choice).
  2. In camera sharpening is generally inferior to what can be achieved later in the computer (unsharp mask, anyone?).
  3. More control over sharpening in the computer.
  4. Different deliverables require different amounts of sharpening. A theatrical release will require a different amount of sharpening than a DVD, which in turn, will require a different amount of sharpening than a web version of your film.
  5. Film doesn't do it - With most digital video cameras, we spend a huge amount of time and effort to get our images to "look like film." With film, what comes in though the lens is what ends up on the film. There's no fancy DSP to get in the way. Any sharpening that is done to film originated images is done in the DI. We should be doing the same with our digital cameras. Capture as pure an image as possible off of the chip. Do the processing in the computer, with a higher degree of control, and the ability to undo changes.

That's all well and good, but how do we control it? What settings do we use? The following analysis deals with Panasonic's HVX-200, but the principles apply to just about any camera.

The HVX-200 has several controls which deal with the detail and sharpening of the image. These settings can be found in the menu, under "Scene File Settings." The settings that we are concerned with are "Detail," "V Detail," and "Detail Coring."

Detail
This setting functions by actually drawing new elements in to your image wherever it detects an edge. For a good example of what this setting could do in an extreme case, take a look at the image from The Italian Job above. This setting is our biggest enemy. It has a value range of -7 to 7. It would seem that a setting of 0 would be the baseline. Any positive numbers would be adding sharpening, and a negative setting would add some sort of blur. Not so. By the time you get up to 0, a significant amount of sharpening is already being added to your image, adding an obscene amount of ringing. Positive values can look absolutely awful:


Detail: +7, V-Detail: -7,Detail Coring: -2. Note how even the image noise is being sharpened and standing out more. Click for 1080p version.

This image was shot with a Detail setting of -1. V Detail was set to -7, and Detail coring to -2:


3:1 crop. Click for larger.

There is even significant artifacting with detail levels set to -3:


Crop. FX element from The Inheritance. Click for larger.

It seems that the only way to get rid of the ringing is to set Detail to -7. Even then, in high contrast areas, there are subtle areas that still seem to exhibit small amounts of ringing. You really have to stress the image to see it, though.

We can try moving the Detail level up to -6, but even here, we can easily see ringing beginning.


3:1 crop. Click for larger. Levels and Hue/Sat. Unprocessed image here.


Ringing evident where the leaves overlap the highlights on the car window. Click for 1080p.

Set your detail level to -7, and keep it there!

V Detail
V Detail is a lot more subtle than its evil cousin. This setting operates much differently on the image.

"Whereas DETAIL LEVEL works with edge enhancement, artificially drawing outlines around objects to accentuate their edges, V DETAIL LEVEL works with the existing image, accentuating vertical contrast between horizontal elements." -The DVX Book, p.51

This type of sharpening is especially evident in the second image from The Hire - Hostage above.

This setting also has a value range from -7 to +7. Again, the -7 value has no identifiable effect on the image:


Click for 1080p.

As the value of the setting increases, naturally so does the effect it has on the image, namely the contrast of what the camera perceives to be "edges." By the time the value for this setting reaches 7, it becomes much easier to see what effect it is having on the image. You'll also notice artifacts really starting to show up, especially banding and the like, on smaller textures that the camera perceives as being edges.


4:1 crop. Levels applied to increase contrast. Click for larger.

In the two images below, you can really see the effects of the V Detail setting. Both were shot with Detail: +3, V Detail: 0, Detail Coring: +2


Click for 1080p.


Click for 1080p.

With this setting, you're probably safe to come up a few notches above -7 without having a noticeably deleterious effect on the image, but I'd recommend playing it safe, and dealing with it in post.

Detail Coring
This setting acts on the noise in the image, applying a slight blur to what the camera thinks are noisy areas. One interesting thing to note is that on the HVX, this setting doesn't have the full -7 to 7 range of the previous two. It only goes down to -2. Given our settings above, this setting will have a very minimal effect on the image (see page 52 of the DVX book for an explanation of this). At higher levels, this setting can start to blur finely detailed areas of the image (hair, for example). Here we see it having a posterizing effect:


2:1 crop. Click for larger. Detail Coring: -2



2:1 crop. Click for larger. Detail Coring: +7

Use with extreme caution. It may not have much of a noticeable effect, but can really come back to bite you when you start pushing the image in post. Instead of trying to smooth the noise in camera, look into something like DE:Noise, an excellent noise reduction plugin that can achieve the same thing in the more flexible post-production environment.

Having read the above, you should now have a pretty good idea of how to get an optimally detailed (or un-detailed) image out of your camera. We still need to look into post production and see what to do with our new, sharpening free footage. There is more to come:

Part II: Balancing the Equation